Tell us about your camera and how you use it. What’s the one thing you like the most about your camera? Are you using a cameraphone? They are great for shooting when you come across an unexpected spectacular moment. Some of the excellent moments have been captured on cameraphones. Or are you using a DSLR?
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We have been covering a lot of basic and technical topics on the photography front in the last one month. We’d like to know you better and collect your suggestions. We want to make sure we know you and your camera so that the information is relevant, is usable and valuable. So what are you waiting for? Come on say something :)
I am not the best person to advise on Nikon’s. There is no ‘Good’ lens for shooting landscapes.
I think the D90 with the 18mm-105mm maybe your best bet. This is a very common zoom lens and will give you a reasonable range from wide-ish to moderate telephoto. A good place to start.
What you may find is your end up prefering to use the Wide Angle end, (18mm) more than zooming in. If this is the case then you might want to consider buying a fixed lens in that focal length.
A fixed lens will give you good quality images and often allow low light shooting. HOWEVER they are not as versitile as you can’t “Zoom in and out” as you can with a zoom lens
There is no such thing as a free lunch in photography. Zoom lenses are versitile, but tend to wards a lower quality image to pay for the versitility. Fixed lenses are usually better quality, but not as conveniant. You have to use you feet and walk to zoom in and out with fixed lenses.
I suggest the 18mm-105mm until you know what and how you like to shoot. Then you can re-asses if you wish to purchase a new lens to cater for the way you like to shoot. Don’t blow money until you have a better idea of what you want to buy.
You had asked about filters earlier.
I suggest that before you take you camera out of the shop you buy a “SkyLight” filter or a UV filter and have it put on the lens. Any other lenses you buy later do the same.
These filters have little impact on the lenses operation, BUT they do provide some basic protection for the front element of the lens. A minor scratch or surface damage to the filter is nothing – you throw it away and buy another for $30 – $50. The same damage to the front of the lens and you have big trouble and a big $ to deal with it.
As for general shooting. Digital doesn’t usually require many filters. Most of it can be done in Photoshop. About the only filter Photoshop cant replicate is a Polarizing filter. These are good to have in your camera bag.
This filter will reduce reflections off water and will give colours a deep richness. It will slow the shutter speed down a bit, but it is usually worth it.
Another filter or series of filters worth considering later are Graduated Neutral Density filters. Yes this can be replicated in Photoshop, but it doesn’t work as well. These filter are best employed if you have a bright sky, sunset or dramatic clouds and you want these to really POP, while keeping a good exposure on the foreground. I wont bore you with any more on these.
The system that utilises these filters and the filters themselves are not that cheap so you may want to consider these later.
Basically “a protect your lens” filter and a polarizing filter are the ones I suggest. By the way you can stack these filters. So can add the polarizing one on top of the UV/Skylight. Also don’t be cheap, you don’t have to spend hundreds, but avoid “El Cheapo” filters.
Good shooting,
Paul